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May 8 , 2001

Tequila Sources Running Dry


Environmental News Network

By Margot Higgins

The maguey plant is a member of the agave family.

"Never again, tequila" may be a common vow following Cinco de Mayo celebrations this past weekend, but tequila consumption is steadily on the rise.

Once regarded as the fiery hooch that required a swift "slam" backed by a twist of lime and salt, tequila is becoming a sophisticated spirit that many prefer to sip and savor. Some aficionados rate the liquid gold, which can command $20 shot in upscale bars, on a par with single malt scotch or fine cognac.

According to a recent report by the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States, tequila consumption has increased 112 percent since 1985 to almost 16 million gallons per year, making it the fastest-growing distilled spirit in the country.

As tequila becomes increasingly popular, conservation issues surrounding its production are surfacing.

There are only five regions in Mexico where tequila is produced. Reduced by skyrocketing demand coupled with a 1997 fungus plague, a severe shortage of the blue agave plant, used to produce tequila, is causing the world's tequila supply to run dry.

The traditional style of tequila consists of at least 51 percent agave juice supplemented by other sugars. Following the recent tequila boom, a number of premium brands made from 100 percent agave have also gained popularity, placing an even greater burden on plant resources.

Because agave plants take eight to 10 years to mature, the shortage is not expected to end anytime soon.

Agave plants don't mature quickly enough to meet current demand for their juice.

As commercial agave plantations are depleted in order to keep up with the demand, tequila producers are invading Mexico's wild forested areas in search of the plant.

"If you take too many agave plants out of the forest, you can diminish the population and bring it to extinction very quickly," explained Catarina Illsley, a researcher at the Group for Environmental Studies in Mexico City. "Agave is one of the few species in the ecosystem that has economic importance. Supporting the people that live off of it is a way to maintain the forests. For centuries agave has been the livelihood of indigenous local peoples, providing fibers and other beverages as well as tequila."

Illsley is the most recent recipient of the Kleinhans Fellowship, sponsored in part by the International Rainforest Alliance. For the next two years she will develop and implement best management practices in the sustainable production of tequila.

"There are ways to manage wild populations of agave in a sustainable way," Illsley said. As a part of her plan, she will help peasant communities return to traditional harvesting practices that allow agave to mature. She'll also work to create a specialized market for certified sustainable tequila.

Illsley also plans to establish nurseries to reproduce agave and return the plant to the forest.

Agave conservation is not limited to maintaining large populations of the plant, she notes. In order to protect the plant, it is also important to preserve its pollinators, such as bats and birds, and their habitat.

The future of agave and deforestation are inextricably linked.

"If agave is not maintained in its wild state, local people may have more incentive to convert forested areas to agriculture or grazing land," Illsley said.

 

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